{"sources": {"aad_acne": {"title": "AAD \u2014 Adult acne treatment dermatologists recommend", "url": "https://www.aad.org/public/diseases/acne/diy/adult-acne-treatment"}, "aad_acne_tx": {"title": "AAD \u2014 Acne: diagnosis and treatment", "url": "https://www.aad.org/public/diseases/acne/derm-treat/treat"}, "aad_spf": {"title": "AAD \u2014 How to select a sunscreen", "url": "https://www.aad.org/public/everyday-care/sun-protection/shade-clothing-sunscreen/how-to-select-sunscreen"}, "aad_dry": {"title": "AAD \u2014 Dermatologists' top tips for relieving dry skin", "url": "https://www.aad.org/public/everyday-care/skin-care-basics/dry/dermatologists-tips-relieve-dry-skin"}, "dn_sa": {"title": "DermNet \u2014 Salicylic acid", "url": "https://dermnetnz.org/topics/salicylic-acid"}, "dn_bpo": {"title": "DermNet \u2014 Benzoyl peroxide", "url": "https://dermnetnz.org/topics/benzoyl-peroxide"}, "dn_aza": {"title": "DermNet \u2014 Azelaic acid", "url": "https://dermnetnz.org/topics/azelaic-acid"}, "dn_ret": {"title": "DermNet \u2014 Topical retinoids", "url": "https://dermnetnz.org/topics/topical-retinoids"}, "dn_txa": {"title": "DermNet \u2014 Tranexamic acid", "url": "https://dermnetnz.org/topics/tranexamic-acid"}, "dn_frag": {"title": "DermNet \u2014 Fragrance allergy", "url": "https://dermnetnz.org/topics/fragrance-allergy"}, "pmc_nia": {"title": "Boo 2021, Nicotinamide in skin care (review)", "url": "https://pmc.ncbi.nlm.nih.gov/articles/PMC8389214/"}, "pmc_aha": {"title": "Tang & Yang 2018, Dual effects of alpha-hydroxy acids on the skin", "url": "https://pmc.ncbi.nlm.nih.gov/articles/PMC6017965/"}, "pmc_vitc": {"title": "Telang 2013, Vitamin C in dermatology", "url": "https://pmc.ncbi.nlm.nih.gov/articles/PMC3673383/"}, "pmc_ha": {"title": "Draelos 2021, Topical hyaluronic acid serum study", "url": "https://pmc.ncbi.nlm.nih.gov/articles/PMC8322246/"}, "pmc_cer": {"title": "Spada 2018, Ceramide cream and skin hydration", "url": "https://pmc.ncbi.nlm.nih.gov/articles/PMC6197824/"}, "pmc_cica": {"title": "Bylka 2013, Centella asiatica in cosmetology", "url": "https://pmc.ncbi.nlm.nih.gov/articles/PMC3834700/"}, "pmc_arb": {"title": "Boo 2021, Arbutin as a skin depigmenting agent", "url": "https://pmc.ncbi.nlm.nih.gov/articles/PMC8301119/"}, "pmc_retl": {"title": "Mukherjee 2006, Retinoids in the treatment of skin aging", "url": "https://pmc.ncbi.nlm.nih.gov/articles/PMC2699641/"}, "pmc_pep": {"title": "Pintea 2025, Peptides for skin aging (review)", "url": "https://pmc.ncbi.nlm.nih.gov/articles/PMC11762834/"}}, "actives": [{"id": "salicylic_acid", "name": "Salicylic acid (BHA)", "syn": ["salicylic acid", "beta hydroxy acid", "bha", "betaine salicylate"], "targets": {"acne": 3, "pore": 2, "oiliness": 2, "texture": 1}, "caution": {"redness": "Can sting or dry already-irritated skin; start every other day.", "moisture": "Can be drying; pair with a moisturiser."}, "src": ["dn_sa", "aad_acne"], "weeks": 6, "note": "Oil-soluble exfoliant that clears clogged pores."}, {"id": "benzoyl_peroxide", "name": "Benzoyl peroxide", "syn": ["benzoyl peroxide"], "targets": {"acne": 3}, "caution": {"redness": "Often irritating at first; 2.5% is gentler than higher strengths.", "moisture": "Drying; moisturise."}, "src": ["dn_bpo", "aad_acne_tx"], "weeks": 6, "note": "Kills acne bacteria; can bleach fabrics."}, {"id": "adapalene", "name": "Adapalene (retinoid)", "syn": ["adapalene"], "targets": {"acne": 3, "texture": 2, "pore": 1}, "caution": {"redness": "Retinoid irritation is common in the first weeks.", "moisture": "Expect dryness and peeling early on."}, "src": ["dn_ret", "aad_acne"], "weeks": 12, "note": "Retinoid for acne; results usually take about 3 months.", "flags": ["retinoid", "avoid_pregnancy"]}, {"id": "retinol", "name": "Retinol / retinal", "syn": ["retinol", "retinal", "retinaldehyde", "retinyl palmitate", "hydroxypinacolone retinoate", "retinyl retinoate"], "targets": {"wrinkle": 2, "texture": 2, "age_spot": 1, "firmness": 1, "acne": 1}, "caution": {"redness": "Can irritate sensitive or red skin; start 2\u20133 nights a week.", "moisture": "Can be drying."}, "src": ["pmc_retl", "dn_ret"], "weeks": 12, "note": "Vitamin A derivative; use at night with sunscreen by day.", "flags": ["retinoid", "avoid_pregnancy", "photosensitising"]}, {"id": "bakuchiol", "name": "Bakuchiol", "syn": ["bakuchiol"], "targets": {"wrinkle": 1, "texture": 1}, "caution": {}, "src": [], "weeks": 12, "note": "Plant-derived; marketed as a gentler retinol alternative, evidence is limited."}, {"id": "azelaic_acid", "name": "Azelaic acid", "syn": ["azelaic acid", "potassium azeloyl diglycinate"], "targets": {"acne": 2, "redness": 2, "age_spot": 2}, "caution": {"redness": "May tingle briefly at first."}, "src": ["dn_aza"], "weeks": 8, "note": "Calms redness, helps acne and uneven tone."}, {"id": "niacinamide", "name": "Niacinamide", "syn": ["niacinamide", "nicotinamide"], "targets": {"oiliness": 2, "pore": 1, "redness": 1, "age_spot": 2, "moisture": 1, "acne": 1, "texture": 1}, "caution": {}, "src": ["pmc_nia"], "weeks": 8, "note": "Well tolerated multitasker for oil, tone and barrier."}, {"id": "glycolic_acid", "name": "Glycolic acid (AHA)", "syn": ["glycolic acid"], "targets": {"texture": 2, "radiance": 2, "age_spot": 1, "wrinkle": 1}, "caution": {"redness": "Acids can sting red or sensitive skin.", "moisture": "Can be drying at higher strengths."}, "src": ["pmc_aha"], "weeks": 6, "note": "Surface exfoliant for dullness and texture.", "flags": ["photosensitising", "acid"]}, {"id": "lactic_acid", "name": "Lactic acid (AHA)", "syn": ["lactic acid", "sodium lactate"], "targets": {"texture": 2, "radiance": 1, "moisture": 1}, "caution": {"redness": "Gentler than glycolic but can still sting."}, "src": ["pmc_aha"], "weeks": 6, "note": "Milder AHA that also helps hydration.", "flags": ["photosensitising", "acid"]}, {"id": "mandelic_acid", "name": "Mandelic acid (AHA)", "syn": ["mandelic acid"], "targets": {"texture": 1, "acne": 1, "age_spot": 1}, "caution": {"redness": "Larger molecule, usually gentler; still patch test."}, "src": ["pmc_aha"], "weeks": 6, "note": "Gentle AHA.", "flags": ["acid"]}, {"id": "pha", "name": "PHA (gluconolactone)", "syn": ["gluconolactone", "lactobionic acid"], "targets": {"texture": 1, "moisture": 1}, "caution": {}, "src": [], "weeks": 6, "note": "Very gentle exfoliant.", "flags": ["acid"]}, {"id": "vitamin_c", "name": "Vitamin C (ascorbic acid & derivatives)", "syn": ["ascorbic acid", "l-ascorbic acid", "sodium ascorbyl phosphate", "magnesium ascorbyl phosphate", "ascorbyl glucoside", "3-o-ethyl ascorbic acid", "ethyl ascorbic acid", "tetrahexyldecyl ascorbate"], "targets": {"radiance": 2, "age_spot": 2, "wrinkle": 1}, "caution": {"redness": "Pure ascorbic acid at low pH can sting."}, "src": ["pmc_vitc"], "weeks": 8, "note": "Antioxidant for dullness and dark spots; works best with daily sunscreen."}, {"id": "tranexamic_acid", "name": "Tranexamic acid", "syn": ["tranexamic acid"], "targets": {"age_spot": 2, "redness": 1}, "caution": {}, "src": ["dn_txa"], "weeks": 8, "note": "Used for stubborn pigmentation such as melasma."}, {"id": "arbutin", "name": "Alpha arbutin", "syn": ["alpha-arbutin", "alpha arbutin", "arbutin"], "targets": {"age_spot": 2}, "caution": {}, "src": ["pmc_arb"], "weeks": 8, "note": "Brightening agent for dark spots."}, {"id": "kojic_acid", "name": "Kojic acid", "syn": ["kojic acid", "kojic dipalmitate"], "targets": {"age_spot": 1}, "caution": {"redness": "Can irritate sensitive skin."}, "src": [], "weeks": 8, "note": "Brightening agent; can irritate."}, {"id": "licorice", "name": "Licorice root extract", "syn": ["glycyrrhiza glabra", "licorice", "liquorice", "dipotassium glycyrrhizate", "glabridin"], "targets": {"age_spot": 1, "redness": 1}, "caution": {}, "src": [], "weeks": 8, "note": "Soothing, mildly brightening."}, {"id": "hyaluronic_acid", "name": "Hyaluronic acid", "syn": ["hyaluronic acid", "sodium hyaluronate", "hydrolyzed hyaluronic acid", "sodium acetylated hyaluronate"], "targets": {"moisture": 2, "wrinkle": 1}, "caution": {}, "src": ["pmc_ha"], "weeks": 2, "note": "Humectant that draws water into the skin."}, {"id": "glycerin", "name": "Glycerin", "syn": ["glycerin", "glycerol"], "targets": {"moisture": 2}, "caution": {}, "src": ["aad_dry"], "weeks": 2, "note": "Classic humectant."}, {"id": "ceramides", "name": "Ceramides", "syn": ["ceramide np", "ceramide ap", "ceramide eop", "ceramide ns", "ceramide eos", "ceramides", "ceramide"], "targets": {"moisture": 2, "redness": 1}, "caution": {}, "src": ["pmc_cer", "aad_dry"], "weeks": 4, "note": "Barrier lipids that reduce water loss."}, {"id": "squalane", "name": "Squalane", "syn": ["squalane"], "targets": {"moisture": 1}, "caution": {}, "src": [], "weeks": 2, "note": "Lightweight emollient."}, {"id": "urea", "name": "Urea", "syn": ["urea"], "targets": {"moisture": 2, "texture": 1}, "caution": {"redness": "Higher strengths can sting broken skin."}, "src": ["aad_dry"], "weeks": 4, "note": "Humectant and gentle keratolytic."}, {"id": "panthenol", "name": "Panthenol (pro-vitamin B5)", "syn": ["panthenol", "dexpanthenol"], "targets": {"moisture": 1, "redness": 1}, "caution": {}, "src": [], "weeks": 2, "note": "Soothing humectant."}, {"id": "centella", "name": "Centella asiatica (cica)", "syn": ["centella asiatica", "madecassoside", "asiaticoside", "cica", "centella asiatica extract"], "targets": {"redness": 1, "moisture": 1}, "caution": {}, "src": ["pmc_cica"], "weeks": 4, "note": "Soothing plant extract."}, {"id": "allantoin", "name": "Allantoin", "syn": ["allantoin"], "targets": {"redness": 1}, "caution": {}, "src": [], "weeks": 2, "note": "Soothing."}, {"id": "zinc_pca", "name": "Zinc PCA", "syn": ["zinc pca", "zinc gluconate"], "targets": {"oiliness": 1, "acne": 1}, "caution": {}, "src": [], "weeks": 6, "note": "Oil-control helper; modest evidence."}, {"id": "sulfur", "name": "Sulfur", "syn": ["sulfur", "sulphur"], "targets": {"acne": 2, "oiliness": 1}, "caution": {"moisture": "Drying."}, "src": ["aad_acne_tx"], "weeks": 6, "note": "Old-school acne active; smells."}, {"id": "tea_tree", "name": "Tea tree oil", "syn": ["melaleuca alternifolia", "tea tree"], "targets": {"acne": 1}, "caution": {"redness": "Essential oil; a known cause of contact allergy."}, "src": ["dn_frag"], "weeks": 8, "note": "Weak evidence for mild acne; allergy risk."}, {"id": "caffeine", "name": "Caffeine", "syn": ["caffeine"], "targets": {"eye_bag": 1, "dark_circle_v2": 1}, "caution": {}, "src": [], "weeks": 4, "note": "Common in eye creams; effects are temporary and modest."}, {"id": "peptides", "name": "Peptides", "syn": ["palmitoyl tripeptide", "palmitoyl pentapeptide", "acetyl hexapeptide", "matrixyl", "copper tripeptide", "palmitoyl tetrapeptide", "argireline", "peptide"], "targets": {"wrinkle": 1, "firmness": 1}, "caution": {}, "src": ["pmc_pep"], "weeks": 12, "note": "Evidence is mostly small, brand-funded studies."}, {"id": "green_tea", "name": "Green tea extract (EGCG)", "syn": ["camellia sinensis", "green tea", "egcg"], "targets": {"redness": 1, "oiliness": 1}, "caution": {}, "src": [], "weeks": 6, "note": "Antioxidant, soothing."}, {"id": "mineral_spf", "name": "Mineral UV filters (zinc oxide / titanium dioxide)", "syn": ["zinc oxide", "titanium dioxide"], "targets": {"age_spot": 2, "wrinkle": 2, "redness": 1}, "caution": {}, "src": ["aad_spf"], "weeks": 0, "note": "Daily broad-spectrum SPF 30+ is the base of preventing spots and photo-ageing.", "flags": ["sunscreen"]}, {"id": "chemical_spf", "name": "Organic UV filters", "syn": ["avobenzone", "octocrylene", "homosalate", "octisalate", "octinoxate", "ethylhexyl methoxycinnamate", "bemotrizinol", "bis-ethylhexyloxyphenol methoxyphenyl triazine", "tinosorb", "uvinul a plus", "diethylamino hydroxybenzoyl hexyl benzoate", "ethylhexyl triazone", "drometrizole trisiloxane", "mexoryl"], "targets": {"age_spot": 2, "wrinkle": 2}, "caution": {}, "src": ["aad_spf"], "weeks": 0, "note": "Daily broad-spectrum SPF 30+ protects measured gains.", "flags": ["sunscreen"]}, {"id": "fragrance", "name": "Fragrance / parfum", "syn": ["fragrance", "parfum", "aroma", "limonene", "linalool", "citronellol", "geraniol", "eugenol", "citral", "coumarin"], "targets": {}, "caution": {"redness": "Fragrance is a leading cause of cosmetic contact allergy; risky for red, reactive skin."}, "src": ["dn_frag"], "weeks": 0, "note": "No skin benefit.", "flags": ["irritant"]}, {"id": "essential_oils", "name": "Essential oils", "syn": ["lavandula angustifolia oil", "lavender oil", "citrus limon peel oil", "bergamot", "peppermint oil", "mentha piperita", "eucalyptus oil", "rosemary oil", "citrus aurantium"], "targets": {}, "caution": {"redness": "Common sensitisers; avoid on red or reactive skin."}, "src": ["dn_frag"], "weeks": 0, "note": "No proven skin benefit.", "flags": ["irritant"]}, {"id": "drying_alcohol", "name": "Drying alcohol (alcohol denat.)", "syn": ["alcohol denat", "alcohol denat.", "sd alcohol", "denatured alcohol", "ethanol", "isopropyl alcohol"], "targets": {}, "caution": {"moisture": "High on the list it can be drying.", "redness": "Can sting irritated skin."}, "src": [], "weeks": 0, "note": "Solvent; fine low in the list, drying near the top.", "flags": ["irritant"]}]}